Whenever I’m on the verge of grabbing some cheap iteration of a clothing trend at a chain store, I hear Margot Siegel saying, “But is it important?” Even when she was a young fashion journalist working for Women’s Wear Daily and paying for Chagall paintings on installment plans, Siegel prioritized good design—for its artistry, but even more so for its cultural relevance. Her closet told stories of war and revitalization, of feminism, romance, and the pop art movement of the 1960s. When she spotted a piece she thought would matter, but couldn’t afford, Siegel waited for a sale to acquire it.

She donated her most “important” pieces years ago to the University of Minnesota’s Goldstein Museum of Design. As founder of Friends of the Goldstein, she persuaded others—including designer Bill Blass—to do the same. In 2009, the museum put on an exhibit inspired by Siegel’s contributions, titled Intersections: Where Art Meets Fashion. I’ll never forget escorting Siegel to the gallery for a preview—her cane in one hand, a Louis Vuitton denim bag in the other. Age 86 at the time, she walked me through the exhibit piece by piece, pointing out the way black graphics on a Goldworm dress hinted at Matisse, and how art became accessible in the form of a Warhol print on a Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle.

“A lot of fashions end up being more important historically than in a fashion sense,” Siegel was quoted in an article I wrote about that exhibit for the St. Paul Pioneer Press. “They tell you what we were like at that moment in time.”

Siegel passed away in February at 91. Those who worked with her on boards and committees—for the Goldstein, and for Fashion Group International in both the Twin Cities and Palm Springs, California, where she founded the chapter—declared it the end of an era. I found myself wondering how many “Margots” are out there today—investing in fashion for the sake of history, not just a red carpet photo op.

“The thing that made Margot so unique was her background as a journalist, coupled with her experience in retail (her mother was a Dayton’s Oval Room buyer) and her love of contemporary art,” says Lin Nelson-Mayson, director of the Goldstein Museum. “She gave us a boost we would not have otherwise had.”

Not a lot of people shop like Siegel. But many do contribute to the Goldstein, which has amassed 31,000 pieces in its nearly 40-year tenure at the U. The Goldstein collection includes furniture and small household objects—like a Michael Graves teapot from Target—as well as clothing, from the early 1800s to modern day. Currently, Nelson-Mayson says the museum is collecting wearable technology, which, as it continues to evolve, will serve as a visual timeline of progress.

And that’s perfectly in line with the Goldstein’s mission. “The objects we collect can be beautiful, but it’s more about being useful,” Nelson-Mayson says. Clothing fits right in as wearable art—the way Siegel always saw it.

Pieces from the collection are used for classroom study and for specialized exhibits in the Goldstein’s petite gallery. Increasingly, Nelson-Mayson says the Goldstein has looked beyond its own cramped quarters to do exhibits in larger spaces on campus, like Rapson Hall.

Nelson-Mayson’s ultimate goal is a larger dedicated space for the Goldstein, to display more of the collection on an ongoing basis—a source of reflection and inspiration in this design-focused town.

Were she still here, no doubt, Siegel would be leading the charge.

Having helped to reframe Faribault Woolen Mill Co.’s story for the 21st-century shopper who cares about process as much as product, John Mooty is now applying his penchant for retail storytelling to established and new brands at Wilson & Willy’s. Mooty’s North Loop store, in a renovated historic building, carries home furnishings, accessories, and apparel for men and women.

But there’s a special twist to his merchandise: Half of the inventory was designed exclusively for Wilson & Willy’s, including men’s boots by Chicago-based Oak Street Bootmakers, specially made with leather from S.B. Foot Tanning Co. in Red Wing, and jackets and sweaters by Minneapolis-based Hackwith Design House, made with Faribault Woolen Mill fabric. “We’re trying to create an environment that does the product and story justice,” Mooty says. He’s off to an auspicious start.

211 Washington Ave. N., Mpls., 612-315-2280, wilsonandwillys.com

It’s liberating to open a store when success doesn’t hinge on whether or not customers show up. You can do something as audacious as building a contemporary design store in a Golden Valley industrial park.

That’s where you’ll find AlwaysMod, the new 4,000-square-foot showroom featuring furniture, lighting, textiles, and home accents. It’s the evolution of FinnStyle, which had a storefront in Minneapolis for more than a decade, but always did 90 percent of its business online as one of the top destinations for Finnish design objects on the Internet.

FinnStyle.com is one of six retail websites run by Ben Horn’s under-the-radar company, Our World Shops. FinnStyle still exists online, but as a store, Horn wanted to add top contemporary brands from around the world, and thought the broader name AlwaysMod.com, a URL he already owned, made sense. Now, AlwaysMod will be the flagship brand for Our World Shops, which moved its warehouse, corporate offices, and storefront to Golden Valley.

The store is open and bright, with a wall of bold Marimekko fabrics, glass tables set with sleek Georg Jensen bowls and Tom Dixon decanters, and Artek Aalto lacquered chairs. Smart Associates, which has done several stores at Galleria, designed the space, and you can’t help but wonder how popular AlwaysMod might be at an upscale mall. But that’s not Horn’s game plan.

“I didn’t do well at Gaviidae, and I don’t really have experience at the malls,” Horn says. “I just know that my rent would be higher, and so would labor costs. There are a lot of benefits to running retail in the same building as our warehouse. I don’t want to lose focus on our online business.”

Yet, he enjoys having that local retail presence in his hometown. “It’s very complementary to the online business,” Horn says. “It would be great if more retail followed us to Golden Valley.”

905 Decatur Ave. N., Golden Valley, 763-746-5600, alwaysmod.com

There’s a reason retailers continue to “pop-up.” We show up. Whether it’s a pop-up boutique that lingers longer than many permanent stores end up lasting or a weekend pop-up sale that’s really just a garage sale with a fancy name—the label, overused as it has become, gets shoppers excited. We’re such simple creatures when you get right down to it. We respond to experiences that feel exclusive or at least fleeting.

Pop-up shops first became sexy when fashion brands started appearing in unexpected places—often raw, urban spaces. Stripping away the plush confines of a tony address seemed daring and novel. Now, the reverse is happening: independent neighborhood boutiques are popping up where you’d least expect them—at suburban malls.

And it’s working.

Minneapolis boutiques Primrose Park, Mona Williams, and Roe Wolfe recently teamed up with Shoppes at Arbor Lakes boutique Juniper for a pop-up clearance sale in an empty space at the Maple Grove center. They had a line outside the store on opening day—something that hasn’t ever happened at their permanent locations. Last month, Primrose Park owner Jennifer Carnahan coordinated a Spring Pop-Up Shop at Eden Prairie Center with several locally owned boutiques. They’re talking about bringing that concept back to Arbor Lakes this summer.

Seeing the buzz the boutique pop-up created caught the attention of Pottery Barn Kids. The national retailer, a fixture at Arbor Lakes since it opened, decided to turn its standard floor model sale into a pop-up, using a vacant space a few doors away. It’s funny when you think about it: move the sale out of the polished storefront, into a generic space, and shoppers take it more seriously.

For the malls, the benefit of these pop-ups is obvious: It keeps the lights on in an unrented space, and as Arbor Lakes marketing director Jennie Zafft says, allows the center to incubate potential tenants.

Mall of America has been hosting pop-ups since the days when they were simply known as temporary stores. Back then, most were mere kiosks in the middle of the corridors.

Now, pop-ups are more elaborate. Shoppers might not have even realized Creative Kidstuff and Uptown Minnesota (a gift store featuring local artisans that started at the airport) were holiday pop-ups at Mall of America, and no matter: both stayed, due to demand.

Ridgedale was able to fill a bevy of empty storefronts with pop-ups last year, many of which are interested in coming back this holiday season. However, general manager Joan Suko says they will find less availability once a major remodel is complete and the new Nordstrom is open.

Pop-ups are a lot like dating—fresh and exciting, but not built to last. That’s why Equation has settled into a permanent spot at 50th & France, after popping up in the neighborhood last fall and dancing around commitment through the holidays.

“It was great for us to test the response,” says Susan Sun, who was cautious about jumping into another permanent store after closing OPM boutique.

For Equation, she teamed up with former Target senior manager Jamie Carl to complement the women’s clothing with an assortment of gifts, accessories, and home accents. “The pop-up gave us time to make sure we worked well together,” Sun says. After Christmas, the two were ready to put a lease on it.

“We wanted a space we could really make our own,” Sun says. “And we wanted customers to know where to find us.”

Eventually, all that popping gets exhausting. To endure, you’ve got to settle in, and find other ways to keep the (retail) romance alive.

Sandal season is fleeting, so have some fun. Summer nail polish colors are as bold as a box of Crayolas. Think pop art for your toes, a la International Pop at the Walker Art Center. Any rainbow hue goes, from yellow to blue. For a pedicure at the lake, try A La Mode Boutique & Nail Spa—known for its all-natural products and heavenly leg and foot massage. Based in Edina, the locally owned nail salon just opened its second location in downtown Wayzata.

755 E. Lake St., Wayzata, 952-476-0457, alamodenails.com

She’s got four kids, 8 and under, a house under construction in Edina, and a husband who just signed a two-year contract with the Miami Dolphins. But Nicole Jennings, wife of former Minnesota Vikings wide receiver Greg Jennings, is forging ahead with her own business venture: an online consignment boutique called The Posh Mommy.

It’s actually fairly easy for Jennings, the MVP of multitasking, to maintain focus, all she has to do is stare into her closet. “I feel like I’ve been pregnant my entire adult life. I have clothes in so many sizes. We had to get a storage unit when we moved to Minnesota, and Greg just looked at me and said, ‘What are you doing?’”

So Jennings—who has a degree in nursing, but a lifelong flair for fashion—created theposhmommy.com to unload some of the clothes she’s amassed in the past decade of fundraisers and red carpets and pregnancies. She enlisted wives of other pro athletes to join her. Julie Wells, wife of St. Louis Rams center Scott Wells; and Michi Marshall, who is married to New York Jets wide receiver Brandon Marshall, are among the contributors. Every month, Jennings picks a charity to receive a portion of proceeds and many of her contributors make additional donations to causes important to them.

“Football is not always seen in the best light,” Jennings says. “I want people to see the good side. To see the women behind the athletes who are using their platform for good.” Scooping up a barely used Gucci bag for half price is just a fun bonus.

Once summer hits, we tend to pull out our maritime stripes and anchor prints. This year, we’re diving in deeper, with fashion and home accessories that reference the wonders of the sea.

Our Inspiration.

The ocean scene on these designer swim trunks is totally mesmerizing. Swim trunks ($345), by Orlebar Brown, from MartinPatrick 3, 212 3rd Ave. N., Ste. 106, Mpls., 612-746-5329, martinpatrick3.com

Sea Glass(es). Handmade from recycled glassware, each one is a little bit different. Tall glasses ($14 each) and pitcher ($34), by Hawkins NY, from Mille, 316 W. 48th St., Mpls., 612-209-7364, shopmille.com

Beach Walk. We love the mix of high gloss metallic and earthy cork. Sandals ($195), by Tory Burch, from Pumpz, Galleria, 952-926-2252, pumpzco.com

Summer Sunnies. Turquoise shades are perfect for staring into the water. Sunglasses ($280), by Karen Walker, also from Pumpz

Can Do Coral. Makes a striking accent on any table. Carpacia coral bowl ($65), from MartinPatrick 3, 212 3rd Ave. N., Ste. 106, Mpls., 612-746-5329, martinpatrick3.com

Make a Splash. Look closely, the print is a pool photo. Clutch ($278), from kate spade, katespade.com

Beached. This gold ceramic whale box makes a great catchall. Whale box ($14.99), by Threshold, from Target, target.com

Cool Accent. Woven threads in shades of blue conjure the ocean. Pillow ($19.99), by Threshold, also from Target

Beach Bangle. A hint of coral will warm up your ensemble. Bracelet ($45), from Melly, Galleria, 952-929-9252, mellyonline.com

It’s not just the items people buy, but also the reasons why that make retail fascinating to follow and challenging to master.

Designer consignment seemed the perfect niche for Patric Richardson when he opened Mona Williams two years ago. As a former designer apparel manager at Nordstrom Mall of America, he helped stock many of the most exclusive closets in town . . . and knew how quickly those wardrobes get turned over.

From day one, Mona Williams in Northeast has featured gorgeous, barely worn designer pieces—Gucci dresses, Louis Vuitton bags, Prada shoes. The shoppers came, but they didn’t always buy. Richardson was correct in thinking his boutique customers would want fashion at more accessible prices. But he’s realized they care more about leaving with something, and not necessarily something with a famous label.

“Women aren’t shopping me the way they do Fashion Avenue,” says Richardson, referring to the broad assortment available at one of the Twin Cities’ premier destinations for designer consignment. “This is not the place for $99 Armani pants.”

Instead, Mona Williams is the place for that one-of-a-kind beaded skirt. But if the skirt isn’t the customer’s size, she’s out of luck, and Richardson is out of the sale. The last thing an independent retailer wants is to turn away an eager shopper.

So Richardson decided to tweak his inventory—not his strategy. He believes that in a sea of stores selling basics, there’s a need for a boutique that focuses exclusively on the special purchases. He’s just changing his philosophy on what makes the merchandise special. To that end, Mona Williams is moving away from consignment to new merchandise.

“If mainstream stores can start mixing in vintage, I can start selling future vintage,” he says. Richardson is bringing in lesser-known brands like Danish collection Baum Und Pferdgarten—all pattern and pleats, no basics. Although Richardson says he’s never going to turn down a vintage Chanel jacket, new lines give him more control over what’s on the racks, especially in terms of sizes.

“People want a trophy,” Richardson says. “They don’t necessarily want to buy Paco Rabanne for $4,000, but they want that look. They’re curious, interested in fashion, and seeking brands no one has ever heard of.”

Risk-taking retailers are what make the Twin Cities exciting to shop. Make a point to see what new and unusual fashions arrive at Mona Williams over the coming months.
18 University Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-331-4493, monawilliams.com

No one knew more about blazing a trail in fashion than Eunice Johnson, founder of Ebony Fashion Fair, which was more than a magazine feature and a touring runway show—it was a movement that redefined beauty and style for African Americans for 50 years, beginning in the late 1950s. An exhibit on display at the Minnesota History Center features 40 fantastic pieces shown in the Ebony Fashion Fair in the late 20th and early 21st century by Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, and many others. You don’t have to know a lot about fashion to appreciate the impact these dramatic designs modeled by women of color had on an entire generation. I’ve never seen the history center as packed as it was on opening night of the exhibit. It’s definitely worth a visit. Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair is on view through August 16. Tickets are $11 for adults; $9 for seniors and students.

The “maker” movement that swept the North Loop now has a white house of possibilities on Water Street in Excelsior. Golden Rule is part of a new wave of independent retailers hyper-focused on visual impact (and natural light), storytelling, and relationships with makers of design objects, from Solid Manufacturing Co. leather goods and Neal jewelry in Minneapolis to textile wall hangings by former Anthropologie display coordinator Cindy Hsu Zell of Los Angeles. The shelves are filled with affordable treasures and the walls are lined with colorful paintings by local artists. Owner Erin Kate Duininck, a jewelry designer herself, has created a compelling marketplace, worthy of a drive all the way from Washington Avenue. 350 Water St., Excelsior, 612-598-2098, goldenrulecollective.com

When advertising exec Kimberly Senn couldn’t find art she loved for her son’s nursery, she pulled out her paintbrushes and drew a happy whale spouting water that extended onto three brightly colored canvases. Then she did what any excited mother-to-be would do—she posted it on Facebook, and got more than “likes.” She got commissions. So at 39 weeks pregnant, Senn found herself in the unexpected position of painting nursery art for friends.

It took another year of steady orders for Senn to believe art could be a second career. She had decided not to return to her account director position at Cutwater in San Francisco and was feeling like she had the hang of the mommy thing to son Hugo. So she incorporated as Senn & Sons (fortuitous, since her second son, Freddie, had yet to be born), set up an Etsy shop, and started posting her nursery art on Pinterest. She painted that whale triptych about 100 times before accepting that she wasn’t going to be able to keep up with demand by hand. So she hired a printing company, and Sprout San Francisco became her first retailer.

Now that Senn and her husband Marty, who is also in advertising, have returned to the Midwest—she grew up in La Crosse, Wisconsin—and settled into a home and routine in her husband’s native Edina, she’s ready to “hit the gas” on her business. “I’m in the process of saying yes to everything,” Senn says, only half kidding. She provided the graphics on a collection of accessories and wall hangings called Live & Love MN (available online and at local boutiques). She also collaborated with California-based organizational products company Blue Sky—after meeting the head of licensing and partnerships at a friend’s wedding—on a collection of notebooks and planners that launch this month at Target. The triangles and polka dots in mint green and orange are Senn’s way of staying true to bright, optimistic design—beyond the nursery.

Meanwhile, Senn is turning her nursery drawings into characters—Hugo the Hippo and Freddie the Fox—that will be central to educational products she’s developing for kids. And her nursery art, which starts at $40 for a set of three prints, continues to be popular—especially after making the Wall Street Journal’s gift list last December. Says Senn, “I really love doing it all.” 

From Basilica Block Party to concerts at Lake Harriet Bandshell, this is the season to embrace your inner bohemian. Wear crystals! Add a little fringe! Those elements can warm up a room at home, too. Here are some of our favorite ways to get the look.

OUR INSPIRATION:
Coachella—which kicks off the outdoor concert season every April near Palm Springs—has become a star-studded fashion affair, giving rock stars like Fergie (and the rest of us regulars) an excuse to pair suede and denim.

1. Hang On.
Textiles add dimension and earthiness to a room. Wall hanging ($80), by WKNDLA, from Golden Rule, 350 Water St., Excelsior, 612-598-2098, goldenrulecollective.com

2. Hats Off.
Time to upgrade the ol’ baseball cap. Fedora ($30), by Dobbs, from MartinPatrick 3, 212 3rd Ave. N., Mpls., 612-746-5329, martinpatrick3.com

3. Have a Seat.
Travel chairs have never looked this good. Camp stool ($165), by Wood&Faulk, from Forage Modern Workshop, 4023 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-886-3603, foragemodernworkshop.com

4. Jump Around.
The perfect blend of comfort and style. Leather slides ($64), by Seychelles, from Parc, 320 Hennepin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-353-4966, parcboutique.com

5. Fringe Fest.
Wear it as a clutch or crossbody. Fringe bag ($250), by Hammitt, from Merilou, 726 E. Lake St., Wayzata, 952-476-0027

6. Shade of Pale.
Pastel purple is a favorite for summer. Nail lacquer ($2), by Kleancolor, from Primp, 4755 Chicago Ave. N., Mpls., 612-259-7609, primpyourself.com

7. Pack a Picnic.
Looks sharp on a sofa, or in a field. Spider Rock Throw ($189), by Pendleton Woolen Mills, also from Forage Modern Workshop

8. Dress Down.
Ditch the jorts for a modern boho dress. Dress ($105), by Willow & Clay, from Lily and Violet, 3413 W. 44th St., Mpls., 612-746-4160, lilyandviolet.com

9. Crystal Clear.
We love all the edges on this crystal necklace. Necklace ($72), also from Lily and Violet

No one was shocked when the Timberwolves snatched up Karl-Anthony Towns as the first pick of this year's NBA draft. Seven feet tall in his Air Jordans, a smart player, and comfortable in several roles on the court—he was an attractive prospect for several teams.

So let's talk about something more controversial: what he was wearing on draft night. A loud jacket paired with black shirt and pants, no tie; just a chain necklace. The New York Times was not a fan. He fit in with the rest of the class of 2015, all loud colors and pocket squares, but we think he can do even better than his classmates—and so can you! We're here to channel his fashion enthusiasm and give some tips for would-be draftees and other folk hoping to step up their game, no matter the occasion.

GO FOR BOLD

A herringbone jacket like Towns' draft night stunner makes a statement and lets the room know you're ready to be noticed. Bonus points for grey, a dominant color story in men's looks for this fall. Ready to become the center of attention? Try MartinPatrick 3, which specializes in European and under-the-radar lines you won't see on any other guy in the room. We're fans of this Onassis New York wool blazer or this classic Ted Baker check.

MIX HIGH WITH LOW

Menswear runway shows have been picking up what basketball players have been laying down for years: mixing sporty touches in with street looks. Mesh, fitted caps, and—above all—sneakers, are now acceptable in the office (in small doses). We loved Towns' press day bomber mixed with athletic pants and an elevated shoe. Get the look at BlackBlue in St. Paul, which offers a few lightweight jacket options from Left Field NYC and Carhartt WIP. And for a shoe with street cred, head to Uptown's Familia Skateshop, which recently teamed up with Nike to design a Babe the Blue Ox-inspired pair of Dunks.

FIND A TAILOR YOU TRUST

Towns has a wingspan longer than he is tall—good luck buying off the rack if that's what you're working with. But most men's suits could use a little taking in here or there, especially with the lean look of this fall's silhouettes. The name we keep in our back pocket for quick turnaround and a trustworthy eye? Tailors on Blake in St. Louis Park. We love the blazer, Karl-Anthony, but those sleeves were looking a hair short. Once you nail the basic proportions, then you can start exaggerating them, just like every basketball player's style icon, Amar'e Stoudemire.

ALWAYS OVERDRESS FOR THE OCCASION

Draft debuts notwithstanding, overdressed is better than underdressed in the days of the selfie stick. Do it for the Instagram, guys.

 

The 2015 #NBADraft Class is ready to go!

A photo posted by NBA (@nba) on

Jun 25, 2015 at 3:26pm PDT

There’s no such thing as starting small when you’re the son of lululemon founder Chip Wilson, who turned yoga pants into a billion-dollar empire and changed the way we dress in the process. Chip quit the lululemon board this year. In the wake of a clash with the company he built, Chip’s son, JJ Wilson, 26, started thinking about what comes after all-day athletic clothes. The technical cashmere that Chip’s wife (JJ’s stepmom), Shannon Wilson, developed became the catalyst for Kit and Ace. The Wilsons launched just 13 months ago in their hometown of Vancouver and are on track to open 50 stores this year. Minneapolis was high on their priority list—Kit and Ace opened in the North Loop in June. A second Twin Cities location is coming this fall to Mall of America. I talked to JJ about his grand plans.

How is Kit and Ace different from every other brand that sells T-shirts and hoodies?
We’re trying to take fashion and make it technical so it stretches and moves with you, and you can put it in the dryer without it shrinking. We wanted to be able to wear fashion that performs the same way as athletic apparel.

The clothes are incredibly soft, but the assortment is limited.
In the fall, you’ll get our first, gentle view of the full product scope—bottoms, technical outerwear. As we grow our collection, we want to make sure we are learning and building on who we are.

And who are you?
Effortless luxury. We want everything we’ve created to save time, to be a luxury experience. We don’t want to be limited.

How involved is your father?
He’s got two other projects, an online meditation platform and the family charity. He’s putting a lot of time and effort into those things. But I embrace whatever he can give. He’s pretty brilliant. And he’s 100 percent supportive. As a family, we’re excited to be in creation again. We excel at the beginning stages. We’re having a blast.

What’s the best advice he gave you?
There’s no way anyone can do what we’re doing by not being willing to mess up a few times. Not everything is going to go perfectly, and you have to be OK with that.

And what is it like working side-by-side with your stepmother?
We work unbelievably well together. Every single conversation is a mix of personal and business. That’s the way our family communicates, and it allows us to have a strong relationship.

The North Loop store is furnished with a dining table made locally by Noah Hall. And I know it’s used for your “Supper Club.” Can you explain? 
We don’t talk about that! I guess we can. It’s really about connecting. We bring in local emerging chefs, and our shop directors bring groups together (ideally, 10 or so people that have never met) for dinner.

Are there other elements unique to each store?
We fear all the shops looking the same. We want them to be consistent, but specific to each market with art, lighting.

A second-floor space in Minneapolis seems risky.
It might be a little off the beaten path, but North Loop was on our list and we wanted to start building the brand there. We probably won’t be in that space more than two years. When the right real estate comes up, we’ll do it all over again.

It’s interesting that you’re putting so much emphasis on physical stores when so many brands are doing their building and connecting through digital.
Our shop is about brand experience. Come in, feel, look, be a part of Kit and Ace. E-commerce may be the future, but I don’t think the social element of shopping will ever go away. I love shopping.